![]() ![]() Not saying your not pushing the modern limits of construction, but if you have enough 2圆's one could double up a few one on each side of the existing rafter, or as far as shear, if your concerned, could consider a split ring type of attachment, I'll have to figure that one out when I buy my roofing panels.I have buildings with 2x4 on 24 spanning 12 foot, slight sag after 90 years,Īnother building 2x4 24 on center spanning 10', no seeable sag, 70 years,īarn lean to sheds, 2圆 24 oc, 15 foot, span slight sag it is 105 years old, (all lumber is Douglas fir)Īll have approximately the same slope as your drawing, all of my buildings are 1x sheeted and have been shingled, with asphalt shingles, the barn is sheeted but tinned now, A panel of 24 gauge steel will accommodate a much greater purlijn spacing than a panel of 29 gauge steel. is adequate, but that really depends on the strength properties of the roof panel. ![]() So for my location I can put 4x8 rafters on 32" center.įor purlin spacing, I'm assuming 24" o.c. Using these loads for a 4x8 spanning 120 inches, my beam passes. ![]() So if I lessen the rafter spacing to 32" it might pass. Keeping all the other numbers the same, I changed Depth to 8 inches and clicked on ShowResult. The next thing I tried is going deeper, using a 4x8 rafter. If you are following along with this example using the calculator you find that it fails. Then click on Show Result to have the calculator determine if the beam passes or fails. You would pick what is available from your lumber supplier Species: I selected SPF #2 B+S, which covers the lowest structural grade of spruce, pine, and fir.Width of beam in inches: 4 because I'm using rough-sawn.Dead load: the weight of the roof borne by the rafter, 300 lbs.This tool will tell us if the desired rafter spacing is adequate for the rafter and load. Then click on the second link, which is for a Uniformly Loaded Simple Beam (the URL is at ). If you scroll down there you will find Don P's Calculators and you want to select the Beam and Column Calculators link. There are some really useful calculators at Forestry Forum at. So my rafter will be supporting a load of 30 s.f. You can calculate out what that is, but a convenient number to use is 10 lbs per s.f. The load includes the design weight for snow plus the weight of the roof itself. So each rafter is supporting an area of 3' * 10' or 30 s.f. That is the rafter spacing times the horizontal distance between the beams. The math part is figuring out the area and load each rafter will be supporting. I'm using big rafters widely spaced, shooting for 36" on center. The next part is pretty easy, and just requires some basic math. area for ground snow load, but applying wind and importance factors knocks it down to 50 psf. My location doesn't have a permit or inspector to worry about, so I'm just concerned about a roof that will withstand the elements, primarily snow. I'm considering the same question for a sawmill shed I plan on building. a 3-12 roof is the lowest slope you can go with metal roof panels. I used ABC panels to do my roof (Curtis Lumber carries them), and their installation guide would give you the spacing and sizing of the skip sheathing (purlins). They think they are going to get people building better houses but they end up getting the average guy to circumvent the code because it's so intimidating and potentially so expensive.Ī 50psf snow load 2圆 16" oc can span around 10 feet. these people that write these codes have probably never swung a hammer let alone built a house. There is no way they want everyone in upstate NY to hire some snow load case study specialist at $500 a job to do a case study before putting on a dang roof. Now it is a zoomed out map with most of NYS being blank, and written in the north east corner of Ohio, and in PA it says "CS" which means case studies. There was a zoomed in map of NYS in the 2010 codes and you could easily see what snow load to use. ![]() I was going to say it's easy to just look at the map. ![]()
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